Original Parts with an Original Fit!

1964 1/2 Mustang 170 6 Cylinder Engine vs. 200 CID Engine

From 1962 to 1964 1/2, Ford used the 170 cubic inch 6 cylinder engine. This was an inline straight 6. The 170 engine was discontinued in the summer of 1964. The 200 engine was used until 1978, at which time it was discontinued as well.

In 1965, Mustangs were outfitted with the 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder engine. At first glance, these engines look the same. There are some major differences, however. The main difference is a 170 engine block and crankshaft has four main bearing journals, while a 200 engine block and crankshaft has seven main bearing journals. Thus, the cranks and blocks are not interchangeable.

A noticeable difference between the two engines is the 170 engine has three soft freeze plugs on the right hand side (passenger side) of the block, while a 200 engine has five soft freeze plugs.

A subtle difference between the two engines is the timing cover. The 170 engine’s timing cover does not have a bolt hole in the bottom for an alternator or generator mounting bracket. The 200 engine’s timing cover has a bolt hole for mounting the alternator bracket.

1964 1/2 Mustang 260 V8 vs. Early 289

From 1962 to 1964 1/2, Ford used the 260 V8 engine. This engine was the predecessor to the 289. The 289 was developed in 1963. The main difference between a 260 and a 289 is the 260 has a 6 inch space between the motor mount bolt holes, while the 289 has a 7 inch space.

All 260 engines have a 5-bolt bellhousing bolt pattern. The 1963 and 1964 1/2 289 engines have the same 5-bolt pattern. The 260 has a smaller cylinder bore. Ford did not make a 260 4V engine. You can always add an early 289 4V intake to your 260 engine if you want to make a “D code” style engine (“D code” is a 1964 1/2 289 4V engine).

Reproduction Cowl Panel

Once your cowl panel is removed, you can look at its condition and decide which repairs need to be done. Often times, the lower cowl panel is in good shape and only needs to be cleaned and re-painted. However, if it is rusty, a patch panel will need to be installed. Dynacorn Industries offers a good reproduction repair panel. It is a complete lower cowl panel replacement, so you won’t need a patch panel.

I’ve used several of these and they work great. Keep in mind that this panel is patterned after a 1967 Mustang. So if you are using the panel on a 1965 or 1966 Mustang, you will need to drill an extra hole in the mounting flange of your left hand fresh air intake canister. 1967 Mustang fresh air intake canisters had more mounting stud holes than a 1965 or a 1966 did.

To achieve the proper placement of this extra hole, place your fresh air canister on the cowl prior to installation and mark the mounting flange.

Another thing to keep in mind: if you are repairing a 1965 Mustang cowl panel, make sure that your windshield wiper transmission protrudes high enough through the top of the exterior cowl panel. This ensures that you have enough of the wiper transmission protruding through to put the chrome bezel on it. If this isn’t done during installation, it is difficult to do once the painting has been completed.

Avoiding Paint Overspray inside the Cowl Panel

Here is a tip on avoiding paint overspray inside the Cowl Panel. After you have removed, repaired, and repainted your 1965-1968 Mustang cowl panel, you are ready to reinstall it.  Here’s a neat tip for avoiding any paint overspray in the cowl panel area.  Use aluminum foil!  The aluminum foil catches all the paint overspray that would accumulate in the vent area of the Mustang cowl.

Here’s what to do:  prior to permanently welding the cowl lid on your Mustang, line the cowl floor with aluminum foil.  Then, weld your cowl lid to your Mustang.  When you are ready to paint your Mustang, this aluminum foil will prevent any overspray build-up to the inside of the cowl panel area.

After your vehicle has been painted, simply reach up inside the air or heat intake holes, grab the foil, and pull it out.  This leaves a nice cowl interior without the ugly paint “scale” (paint buildup) that is commonly left in the cowl panel area.

Here’s an additional benefit of using aluminum foil:  If the aluminum foil is carefully placed, it will also prevent weld sparks or blobs of hot metal from burning the painted cowl panel during the welding process.  Aluminum foil works much better than any plastic or paper masking material.

Cowl Reinstallation Tips for 1965 – 1968 Mustang

Nearly all 1965-1968 Classic Mustangs and Cougars should have their cowl vent panel removed.  This area harbors hidden rust, ugly scaly paint overspray, and water leaks.  If not repaired properly, rust will continue to eat away at the cowl panel and then the firewall.  You’re better off taking care of the cowl panel before this nightmare happens.

Upon removing the cowl panel, clean, repair, repaint and re-install it.  Here are some tips for how to re-install the cowl panel.

  1. Align the cowl panel.  Make sure when re-installing, that the position of the cowl panel is correct.  It should line up evenly with the rear edge of the hood.  It should also line up evenly with the front fenders. Temporarily install the hood and fenders to get the positioning correct.  Self-tapping screws work really well for temporarily installing body replacement panels.  When the cowl position is correct, attach the cowl with a few self-tapping sheet metal screws.  This will temporarily hold the cowl in proper position.  Remove the hood and fenders so that you have access to the cowl.
  2. Weld the cowl panel.  Beginning from the center of the cowl panel and working outward, make a plug weld every 2-3 inches.  A plug weld is a weld that fills a hole in the top piece and attaches to the bottom piece.  This type of weld is about 1/4″ size.  Complete the plug welds until you have welded the entire panel.
  3. Grind the welds.  Using an air or electric grinder, grind the excess welds so that they are flush with the cowl panel.
  4. Seal and fill the welds.  Using a quality seam sealer or body filler, fill any grinder marks or unwelded holes.  Once the sealer or filler has cured, sand the area smooth.

You are now ready to paint the cowl area and permanently reattach the hood and fenders.

Mustangs “Down Under” in New Zealand

2009 New Zealand Mustang Convention

New Zealand Mustang Convention

The 30th Annual National Mustang Convention was held in New Zealand during October 23-26, 2009. This event was hosted by the Taranaki Mustang Club and featured some great Mustangs from “down under”. Thanks to our Mustang friends in New Zealand who forwarded these links and YouTube video to us. Classic Mustangs are truly enjoyed worldwide!

1965 Mustang Bench Seat

In 1965, there were 2,111 Bench Seat Convertibles produced.  All other convertibles came with either standard interior (“76A”) or Pony interior (“76B”) bucket seats.  The Bench Seat Convertibles had a body code “76C” stamped on the left hand side, lower rocker panel.  Bench Seat Coupes were stamped with body code “65C”.

A Fastback was stamped “63A” or “63B”.  The code “A” was for standard interior and the code “B” was for Pony interior.  There were not any 1965 Fastbacks that left the factory with a bench seat.  I wonder why not?  The Coupes and Convertibles had them and the bench seat would have certainly fit in a Fastback as well.

Another oddity was that many 1965 Fastbacks have the rocker panel body code “65”, which is a Coupe body code.  The Fastback should have been given a “63” rocker panel body code.  The rocker panels are the same part, but somehow they were stamped incorrectly before assembly at the factory.

Things that make you go hmmmm…..