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Archive for May, 2009

Does a VIN # indicate a Mach 1?

Friday, May 29th, 2009

We received a viewer email and thought it would make for a great blog post.

Question:  I’m kinda new to the world of mustang ownership. I have always loved the 69 Mach 1.  Here is my question:  is there any way to tell a Mach from a regular Fastback by the vin#?

Answer:  Yes, there is a way to tell a 1969 Mach 1 from the VIN#.   The VIN would begin with “905″.  A regular Fastback VIN would begin with a “902″.  “05″ is Mach 1 and “02″ is Fastback.

If you have a question about Mustangs, let us know.  We’ll post your question (but will keep your name confidential).  Chances are, other people might be wondering the same thing.

Mustang cheers to you!

Removing Aged Undercoating

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

When going through the restoration process, all aged undercoating should be removed.  Undercoating is the factory protectant that is sprayed on the undercarriage.  Over the years, this protectant dries out and cracks, allowing rust and corrosion to hide underneath.  It is not always easy just to scrape it off.  If the coating does not easily scrape off, try using a propane blow torch and heat the undercoating until it turns black with red-hot spots and smokes.  This allows the undercoating to soften up.  Then, it should scrape off easily.  Once the undercoating is scraped off, use solvent and a wire brush to clean off the residue.  With the undercarriage properly cleaned, you could then re-finish the undercarriage with red oxide primer.   You could also use rubberized undercoating which is widely available in aerosol spray cans.

Hi Po 289 K Code 9″ Rear End Bracket

Monday, May 11th, 2009
K Code Bracket

K Code Bracket

Interesting Mustang Oddity.  I’m currently restoring a 1965 Factory GT Mustang Fastback, VIN stamped 5R09C. The VIN stamp indicates it is a 289 2V, but I came across something that I have never seen before.  This car has a K-Code style bracket for the rear end snubber bumper, when it should have a standard style bracket instead.  This bracket appears to be factory original.   This K Code style bracket is flatter than the standard bracket and sits farther forward to accommodate the larger 9″ rear end.

K Code Bracket Close Up

K Code Bracket close-up

Standard Rear End Bracket

Standard Rear End Bracket (pictured from a different Mustang)

As you can see, the Hi-Po bracket is a lot different from the standard bracket. It has a lower profile. I have only seen these brackets on K-Code Mustangs and Shelby Mustangs. This car might have been a special order with a 9″ rear end. When I received it, the rear end was missing, as were the rear frame rails in the trunk.

This car is very unique because all of the fender apron stamps and title begin with 5R09C. The original door tag is 5R09A, but the consecutive unit numbers match on all of the tags. I found another VIN stamp on the left hand fender apron that was 5R09A and appears to be a Ford stamp. This car also has the reinforcement plates in the rear floor pan under the back seat, which is reinforcement for the GT exhaust hangars. These plates were never used on dealer GT’s and were only used on Factory GT’s. The rocker panels were never drilled for rocker trim. GT’s did not used rocker panel trim mouldings. So, is this car a GT or not a GT? According to Ford, all GT’s should have an “A” code or “K” code. There were not any Factory 6 cylinder or 2V GT’s.

Is this a Mustang oddity since the car should have been VIN stamped with an “A” or a “K” instead of a “C”? Too bad I can’t do a Marti Report on this car (everything earlier than 1966 has insufficient records). If you can shed any light on this, let me know.

Restore your 1969 or 1970 Mustang A/C Dash Vents

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009
1969/1970 Mustang Dash Vent

1969/1970 Mustang A/C Dash Vent

Original 1969 and 1970 Mustang and Cougar A/C dash vents aren’t reproduced.   So what do you do if you have an original, but it is missing the felt or the felt is loose?

You will need to replace the felt.  Doing so ensures that, when your vent is installed in your Mustang, your vent remains in the desired position.  The felt helps to hold the plastic vent assembly in place.

To replace the felt, you will have to take the vent apart. This involves using a dremmel tool or small grinder to grind the heads off of the swedged pot metal studs. Once this is done, you can take the round plastic vent out and clean and repaint the housing. Then, line the inside of the vent housing with black felt purchased from a fabric store. The felt should be about 1/16″ thick and about 5/8″ – 3/4″ wide and long enough to line the area of the inside of the housing. Before cleaning the housing, check for evidence showing where the original felt was and let this be your guide as to where the felt would go (look for glue residue, fading, etc.)

When you put the vent back together, you would need some kind of epoxy to stick the housings together. This takes the place of the swedged studs that had been ground off to take the vent apart.  Looking for original 1969/1970 A/C vents?  Check out our inventory.  We will be listing a lot more A/C parts soon.  So, if there is something that you need just contact us.

Port Angeles, WA Car Show (April 25, 2009)

Friday, May 1st, 2009