Search Now 1964 1/2 - 1973 Mustang and Cougar Parts Search
FastbackStack LLC Classic Mustang Parts FastbackStack LLC Classic Mustang Blog
Shop for Parts Shop for Accessories Shop for Mustangs
Visit our Store Shop for Parts Shop for Accessories Shop for Mustangs Classic Car Collector Tips Why Buy Original? Policies
Restorer's Corner Mustang How-to Guides How-to Videos Recommended Restorer Supplies Mustang Glossary Nostalgia Vintage Mustang Commercials FAQ's
Customer Mustangs Social Networking Sites Resources For the Kids Mustang Coloring Pages Newsletter
Company History Charities News Customer Feedback

Join us at the 2010 Mustang Roundup!

July 16th, 2010

Stop by and see us at the 2010 Mustangs Northwest Roundup, happening this weekend (July 17-18) at the Bellevue, Washington college.  This is a spectacular car show that includes over 2,000 Mustangs!  We’ll be in Lot #4, near the early generation Mustangs.  We’re bringing this 1968 Mustang Fastback on a rotisserie.  We’ll also have free Mustang coloring books for the kids and discount parts coupons for you!  If you are looking for any part in particular and are going to the Roundup, let us know and we’ll bring it for you.

P1130004

For more information about the Roundup, click here.

2010Roundup

Happy Birthday Ford Mustang!

April 17th, 2010
Ford Mustang turns 46!

Ford Mustang turns 46!

Portland Oregon Swap Meet

April 2nd, 2010
Portland, Oregon Automotive Swap Meet April 9-11, 2010

Portland, Oregon Automotive Swap Meet April 9-11, 2010

Don’t miss the largest automotive swap meet on the West Coast! With over 4,200 vendors and 50,000 shoppers, this swap meet is a parts hunter’s dream! The Portland Swap Meet is less than one week away and runs from April 9th through April 11th.

FastbackStack, LLC will be at the swap meet (Portland Expo Center) in outside booths #9105-9109. We’re bringing a lot of goodies including:

  • 1966 Mustang Fastback body
  • 1967 Mustang Fastback Body
  • 1964-1973 Mustang disc brake sets
  • Top Loader 4 speeds and clutch pedals
  • 1965-1970 Mustang 9″ rear ends
  • 1965-1973 Fastback and Convertible seats, trim, glass
  • 1965-1973 Mustang seat belts – singles and sets for front and rear
  • 1965-1973 Mustang front fenders and doors
  • Plus lots more!

Come and see us in Portland! Click here for general information about the Portland, Oregon Swap Meet.

If you are planning on going to the swap meet and want us to bring anything in particular for you, just let us know by Wednesday evening, April 7th. If, by chance, you’re not able to attend but want us to keep our eyes open for a particular Mustang part, let us know that too. The swap meet doesn’t open to the public until Friday, April 9th, but all of the vendors get to set up on Thursday, April 8th. You can be sure we will be scouring the other vendor’s booths for great deals on Thursday!

Happy bargain hunting and we look forward to seeing you soon!

Ford Autolite Carburetors

January 21st, 2010

Ford made one of the best 4V carburetors when they developed the Autolite 4100 4bbl (4V carburetor). The Autolite 2100 2V was also one of the most trouble-free 2bbl carbs ever produced. In the early 1960’s the Autolite 1100 1V was used on the Ford Falcon and later on the 1964 ½ Mustang 170 cubic inch 6 Cylinder and the 200 as well.

Autolite carburetors, when properly tuned, will out-perform most of the competition. In the 1956 and 1957 Ford Thunderbird performance category, the 312 V8 was outfitted with the Tri-power multi-carburation setup. This unit was a factory Intake manifold with Three Stromberg 2V carburetors. With proper linkage and adjustments, the T-Bird would take flight.

Two of the rarest Autolite 4V’s were the 1.06 and 1.19 carburetor. These were used on the 1958 Mercury only. The Mercury Low Torque 383 V8 used the 1.06. The Mercury High Torque 383 used the 1.19 4V. This 1.19 Autolite carburetor has the highest CFM rating of any Autolite carburetor ever produced (it rates “669″).

Later in 1962 and 1963, Ford developed the FE series 390 and 427 Tri-power and Dual Quad Induction system. Ford utilized Holley carburetors for some of their high-performance applications. Standard and factory performance engines still commonly used the Autolite 1.08 and 1.12 venturi 4V units.

In 1964, the 260 V8 was only offered with a 2V intake manifold. This Autolite 2100 2V carburetor was a 1.01 venturi. Other 2V carburetor sizes were .98, 1.02, 1.06, 1.08, 1.14, 1.23 and 1.33.

Check out our Autolite carburetors we have listed in our eBay store.

New Year…new sale!

January 14th, 2010
Still celebrating the New Year with a 10% off sale!

Still celebrating the New Year with a 10% off sale!

1964 1/2 Mustang 170 6 Cylinder Engine vs. 200 CID Engine

November 20th, 2009

From 1962 to 1964 1/2, Ford used the 170 cubic inch 6 cylinder engine. This was an inline straight 6. The 170 engine was discontinued in the summer of 1964. The 200 engine was used until 1978, at which time it was discontinued as well.

In 1965, Mustangs were outfitted with the 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder engine. At first glance, these engines look the same. There are some major differences, however. The main difference is a 170 engine block and crankshaft has four main bearing journals, while a 200 engine block and crankshaft has seven main bearing journals. Thus, the cranks and blocks are not interchangeable.

A noticeable difference between the two engines is the 170 engine has three soft freeze plugs on the right hand side (passenger side) of the block, while a 200 engine has five soft freeze plugs.

A subtle difference between the two engines is the timing cover. The 170 engine’s timing cover does not have a bolt hole in the bottom for an alternator or generator mounting bracket. The 200 engine’s timing cover has a bolt hole for mounting the alternator bracket.

1964 1/2 Mustang 260 V8 vs. Early 289

November 19th, 2009

From 1962 to 1964 1/2, Ford used the 260 V8 engine. This engine was the predecessor to the 289. The 289 was developed in 1963. The main difference between a 260 and a 289 is the 260 has a 6 inch space between the motor mount bolt holes, while the 289 has a 7 inch space.

All 260 engines have a 5-bolt bellhousing bolt pattern. The 1963 and 1964 1/2 289 engines have the same 5-bolt pattern. The 260 has a smaller cylinder bore. Ford did not make a 260 4V engine. You can always add an early 289 4V intake to your 260 engine if you want to make a “D code” style engine (”D code” is a 1964 1/2 289 4V engine).

Reproduction Cowl Panel

November 14th, 2009

Once your cowl panel is removed, you can look at its condition and decide which repairs need to be done. Often times, the lower cowl panel is in good shape and only needs to be cleaned and re-painted. However, if it is rusty, a patch panel will need to be installed. Dynacorn Industries offers a good reproduction repair panel. It is a complete lower cowl panel replacement, so you won’t need a patch panel.

I’ve used several of these and they work great. Keep in mind that this panel is patterned after a 1967 Mustang. So if you are using the panel on a 1965 or 1966 Mustang, you will need to drill an extra hole in the mounting flange of your left hand fresh air intake canister. 1967 Mustang fresh air intake canisters had more mounting stud holes than a 1965 or a 1966 did.

To achieve the proper placement of this extra hole, place your fresh air canister on the cowl prior to installation and mark the mounting flange.

Another thing to keep in mind: if you are repairing a 1965 Mustang cowl panel, make sure that your windshield wiper transmission protrudes high enough through the top of the exterior cowl panel. This ensures that you have enough of the wiper transmission protruding through to put the chrome bezel on it. If this isn’t done during installation, it is difficult to do once the painting has been completed.

Avoiding Paint Overspray in the Cowl Panel

November 13th, 2009

After you have removed, repaired, and repainted your 1965-1968 Mustang cowl panel, you are ready to reinstall it.  Here’s a neat tip for avoiding any paint overspray in the cowl panel area.  Use aluminum foil!  The aluminum foil catches all the paint overspray that would accumulate in the vent area of the Mustang cowl.

Here’s what to do:  prior to permanently welding the cowl lid on your Mustang, line the cowl floor with aluminum foil.  Then, weld your cowl lid to your Mustang.  When you are ready to paint your Mustang, this aluminum foil will prevent any overspray build-up to the inside of the cowl panel area.

After your vehicle has been painted, simply reach up inside the air or heat intake holes, grab the foil, and pull it out.  This leaves a nice cowl interior without the ugly paint “scale” (paint buildup) that is commonly left in the cowl panel area.

Here’s an additional benefit of using aluminum foil:  If the aluminum foil is carefully placed, it will also prevent weld sparks or blobs of hot metal from burning the painted cowl panel during the welding process.  Aluminum foil works much better than any plastic or paper masking material.

Classic Mustang Cowl Reinstallation Tips

November 12th, 2009

Nearly all 1965-1968 Classic Mustangs and Cougars should have their cowl vent panel removed.  This area harbors hidden rust, ugly scaly paint overspray, and water leaks.  If not repaired properly, rust will continue to eat away at the cowl panel and then the firewall.  You’re better off taking care of the cowl panel before this nightmare happens.

Upon removing the cowl panel, clean, repair, repaint and re-install it.  Here are some tips for how to re-install the cowl panel.

  1. Align the cowl panel.  Make sure when re-installing, that the position of the cowl panel is correct.  It should line up evenly with the rear edge of the hood.  It should also line up evenly with the front fenders. Temporarily install the hood and fenders to get the positioning correct.  Self-tapping screws work really well for temporarily installing body replacement panels.  When the cowl position is correct, attach the cowl with a few self-tapping sheet metal screws.  This will temporarily hold the cowl in proper position.  Remove the hood and fenders so that you have access to the cowl.
  2. Weld the cowl panel.  Beginning from the center of the cowl panel and working outward, make a plug weld every 2-3 inches.  A plug weld is a weld that fills a hole in the top piece and attaches to the bottom piece.  This type of weld is about 1/4″ size.  Complete the plug welds until you have welded the entire panel.
  3. Grind the welds.  Using an air or electric grinder, grind the excess welds so that they are flush with the cowl panel.
  4. Seal and fill the welds.  Using a quality seam sealer or body filler, fill any grinder marks or unwelded holes.  Once the sealer or filler has cured, sand the area smooth.

You are now ready to paint the cowl area and permanently reattach the hood and fenders.