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2013 Portland Oregon Automotive Swap Meet

April 3rd, 2013

Portland Oregon Automotive Swap Meet

Portland Oregon Automotive Swap Meet

PORTLAND SWAP MEET: Are you attending the largest automotive swap meet on the west coast? The Portland, Oregon swap meet starts in 2 DAYS!! Located at the Portland Expo Center, this swap meet runs from Friday, April 5th through Sunday, April 7th. The swap meet is held in two locations: the Portland Expo Center and the Portland International Raceway. Visit the Portland Swap Meet for more details.

We’ll be there in all the action! Come see us at our vendor stalls #9009-9011, located at the Portland Expo Center (outside area). Some of the items that we’ll be bringing with us include:

  • 9” Posi N Case 31 spline 3rd member axles
  • 9” Posi 3.25 31 spline carrier
  • 1957 Ford 9” rear end with axles
  • 1969-1973 Maverick 8” rear end housing with axles
  • Mexican 302 block
  • 4V J code heads Date code May 23
  • 1965-1966 Air Conditioning console (Convertible)
  • 68 Deluxe consoles (3)
  • 67 Deluxe seat-backs (2 sets)
  • 67 Deluxe interior (2 sets)
  • 70 Boss 302 Space saver spare tire
  • Coupe, Convertible and Fastback misc. trim
  • 1967, 1968, 1972 AM/FM radios
  • 1964 1965-66, 1969, 1971 AM radios
  • 1966-68 new carpets, seat covers, misc. interior parts
  • 1965-68 Pony door lights, Deluxe door lights
  • 1965-68 Trim panels
  • 1969 Mach 1 gauges
  • 1970 Fenders
  • 1967-1968 Fenders
  • 1971-1972 Fenders
  • 1971-1973 Fastback trunk lids
  • 1964-73 seatbelts (singles & sets)
  • 1964-73 jack/hold downs – misc parts
  • 1971-73 Fastback parts
  • 1969-70 Fastback trim and parts
  • 1971-72 Tilt steering
  • 1967-68 A/C dash vents
  • 1973 Mach 1 wheels (full set)
  • 1968-69 Mercury Cyclone GT Dashes (black)
  • 1969 429 SCJ Holley Carburetor
  • 1966 and 1967 GT 390 4V Carburetor
  • 1965-1966 6 Cylinder P/S complete rack
  • 1966 Shelby all steel hood
  • 1965 Shelby R model heater delete unit
  • 1967 Shelby grille
  • 1968 Shelby tail panel, tail lights and Shelby wiring
  • 1968 Stuart Warner gauges (1968)
  • 1968 GT wheels with hub caps (full set)
  • NOS 1965-67 Export Brace
  • NOS rocker trim
  • NOS 140 mph speedometer
  • NOS 1970 left hand strut rod, NOS bushings
  • NOS 1966 Hood
  • NOS 1965-1966 Rocker trim
  • NOS 1967-1968 Console shifters (2)
  • NOS odds and ends
  • Plus MUCH MORE!

Stop by our booths at the Portland Expo Center to check everything out. Just look for the FastbackStack sign and lots of Mustang parts!

If you are planning on going to the swap meet and want us to bring anything in particular for you, just contact us today. If, by chance, you’re not able to attend but want us to keep our eyes open for particular Mustang parts, let us know that too!

Happy bargain hunting and we look forward to seeing you soon!

FastbackStack, LLC

P.S. If you would like to purchase something from our eBay store this week, please keep in mind that we will be gone from April 4th – April 7th. Our priority upon our return will be processing all orders that occurred while we were out.

Ford Autolite Carburetors

January 21st, 2010

Ford made one of the best 4V carburetors when they developed the Autolite 4100 4bbl (4V carburetor). The Autolite 2100 2V was also one of the most trouble-free 2bbl carbs ever produced. In the early 1960’s the Autolite 1100 1V was used on the Ford Falcon and later on the 1964 ½ Mustang 170 cubic inch 6 Cylinder and the 200 as well.

Autolite carburetors, when properly tuned, will out-perform most of the competition. In the 1956 and 1957 Ford Thunderbird performance category, the 312 V8 was outfitted with the Tri-power multi-carburation setup. This unit was a factory Intake manifold with Three Stromberg 2V carburetors. With proper linkage and adjustments, the T-Bird would take flight.

Two of the rarest Autolite 4V’s were the 1.06 and 1.19 carburetor. These were used on the 1958 Mercury only. The Mercury Low Torque 383 V8 used the 1.06. The Mercury High Torque 383 used the 1.19 4V. This 1.19 Autolite carburetor has the highest CFM rating of any Autolite carburetor ever produced (it rates “669″).

Later in 1962 and 1963, Ford developed the FE series 390 and 427 Tri-power and Dual Quad Induction system. Ford utilized Holley carburetors for some of their high-performance applications. Standard and factory performance engines still commonly used the Autolite 1.08 and 1.12 venturi 4V units.

In 1964, the 260 V8 was only offered with a 2V intake manifold. This Autolite 2100 2V carburetor was a 1.01 venturi. Other 2V carburetor sizes were .98, 1.02, 1.06, 1.08, 1.14, 1.23 and 1.33.

Check out our Autolite carburetors we have listed in our eBay store.

1964 1/2 Mustang 170 6 Cylinder Engine vs. 200 CID Engine

November 20th, 2009

From 1962 to 1964 1/2, Ford used the 170 cubic inch 6 cylinder engine. This was an inline straight 6. The 170 engine was discontinued in the summer of 1964. The 200 engine was used until 1978, at which time it was discontinued as well.

In 1965, Mustangs were outfitted with the 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder engine. At first glance, these engines look the same. There are some major differences, however. The main difference is a 170 engine block and crankshaft has four main bearing journals, while a 200 engine block and crankshaft has seven main bearing journals. Thus, the cranks and blocks are not interchangeable.

A noticeable difference between the two engines is the 170 engine has three soft freeze plugs on the right hand side (passenger side) of the block, while a 200 engine has five soft freeze plugs.

A subtle difference between the two engines is the timing cover. The 170 engine’s timing cover does not have a bolt hole in the bottom for an alternator or generator mounting bracket. The 200 engine’s timing cover has a bolt hole for mounting the alternator bracket.

1964 1/2 Mustang 260 V8 vs. Early 289

November 19th, 2009

From 1962 to 1964 1/2, Ford used the 260 V8 engine. This engine was the predecessor to the 289. The 289 was developed in 1963. The main difference between a 260 and a 289 is the 260 has a 6 inch space between the motor mount bolt holes, while the 289 has a 7 inch space.

All 260 engines have a 5-bolt bellhousing bolt pattern. The 1963 and 1964 1/2 289 engines have the same 5-bolt pattern. The 260 has a smaller cylinder bore. Ford did not make a 260 4V engine. You can always add an early 289 4V intake to your 260 engine if you want to make a “D code” style engine (“D code” is a 1964 1/2 289 4V engine).

Reproduction Cowl Panel

November 14th, 2009

Once your cowl panel is removed, you can look at its condition and decide which repairs need to be done. Often times, the lower cowl panel is in good shape and only needs to be cleaned and re-painted. However, if it is rusty, a patch panel will need to be installed. Dynacorn Industries offers a good reproduction repair panel. It is a complete lower cowl panel replacement, so you won’t need a patch panel.

I’ve used several of these and they work great. Keep in mind that this panel is patterned after a 1967 Mustang. So if you are using the panel on a 1965 or 1966 Mustang, you will need to drill an extra hole in the mounting flange of your left hand fresh air intake canister. 1967 Mustang fresh air intake canisters had more mounting stud holes than a 1965 or a 1966 did.

To achieve the proper placement of this extra hole, place your fresh air canister on the cowl prior to installation and mark the mounting flange.

Another thing to keep in mind: if you are repairing a 1965 Mustang cowl panel, make sure that your windshield wiper transmission protrudes high enough through the top of the exterior cowl panel. This ensures that you have enough of the wiper transmission protruding through to put the chrome bezel on it. If this isn’t done during installation, it is difficult to do once the painting has been completed.

Avoiding Paint Overspray in the Cowl Panel

November 13th, 2009

After you have removed, repaired, and repainted your 1965-1968 Mustang cowl panel, you are ready to reinstall it.  Here’s a neat tip for avoiding any paint overspray in the cowl panel area.  Use aluminum foil!  The aluminum foil catches all the paint overspray that would accumulate in the vent area of the Mustang cowl.

Here’s what to do:  prior to permanently welding the cowl lid on your Mustang, line the cowl floor with aluminum foil.  Then, weld your cowl lid to your Mustang.  When you are ready to paint your Mustang, this aluminum foil will prevent any overspray build-up to the inside of the cowl panel area.

After your vehicle has been painted, simply reach up inside the air or heat intake holes, grab the foil, and pull it out.  This leaves a nice cowl interior without the ugly paint “scale” (paint buildup) that is commonly left in the cowl panel area.

Here’s an additional benefit of using aluminum foil:  If the aluminum foil is carefully placed, it will also prevent weld sparks or blobs of hot metal from burning the painted cowl panel during the welding process.  Aluminum foil works much better than any plastic or paper masking material.

Classic Mustang Cowl Reinstallation Tips

November 12th, 2009

Nearly all 1965-1968 Classic Mustangs and Cougars should have their cowl vent panel removed.  This area harbors hidden rust, ugly scaly paint overspray, and water leaks.  If not repaired properly, rust will continue to eat away at the cowl panel and then the firewall.  You’re better off taking care of the cowl panel before this nightmare happens.

Upon removing the cowl panel, clean, repair, repaint and re-install it.  Here are some tips for how to re-install the cowl panel.

  1. Align the cowl panel.  Make sure when re-installing, that the position of the cowl panel is correct.  It should line up evenly with the rear edge of the hood.  It should also line up evenly with the front fenders. Temporarily install the hood and fenders to get the positioning correct.  Self-tapping screws work really well for temporarily installing body replacement panels.  When the cowl position is correct, attach the cowl with a few self-tapping sheet metal screws.  This will temporarily hold the cowl in proper position.  Remove the hood and fenders so that you have access to the cowl.
  2. Weld the cowl panel.  Beginning from the center of the cowl panel and working outward, make a plug weld every 2-3 inches.  A plug weld is a weld that fills a hole in the top piece and attaches to the bottom piece.  This type of weld is about 1/4″ size.  Complete the plug welds until you have welded the entire panel.
  3. Grind the welds.  Using an air or electric grinder, grind the excess welds so that they are flush with the cowl panel.
  4. Seal and fill the welds.  Using a quality seam sealer or body filler, fill any grinder marks or unwelded holes.  Once the sealer or filler has cured, sand the area smooth.

You are now ready to paint the cowl area and permanently reattach the hood and fenders.

Mustangs “Down Under” in New Zealand

November 5th, 2009
2009 New Zealand Mustang Convention

New Zealand Mustang Convention

The 30th Annual National Mustang Convention was held in New Zealand during October 23-26, 2009. This event was hosted by the Taranaki Mustang Club and featured some great Mustangs from “down under”. Thanks to our Mustang friends in New Zealand who forwarded these links and YouTube video to us. Classic Mustangs are truly enjoyed worldwide!

1965 Mustang Bench Seat

November 4th, 2009

In 1965, there were 2,111 Bench Seat Convertibles produced.  All other convertibles came with either standard interior (“76A”) or Pony interior (“76B”) bucket seats.  The Bench Seat Convertibles had a body code “76C” stamped on the left hand side, lower rocker panel.  Bench Seat Coupes were stamped with body code “65C”.

A Fastback was stamped “63A” or “63B”.  The code “A” was for standard interior and the code “B” was for Pony interior.  There were not any 1965 Fastbacks that left the factory with a bench seat.  I wonder why not?  The Coupes and Convertibles had them and the bench seat would have certainly fit in a Fastback as well.

Another oddity was that many 1965 Fastbacks have the rocker panel body code “65″, which is a Coupe body code.  The Fastback should have been given a “63″ rocker panel body code.  The rocker panels are the same part, but somehow they were stamped incorrectly before assembly at the factory.

Things that make you go hmmmm…..

Finding Mustang GT/CS Parts

October 30th, 2009

1968 Mustang California Specials are rare and finding original parts can be difficult.  Here are some options you might consider as you search for parts:

California Special Tail Light Sockets

If your GT/CS has a corroded tail light socket and you need to replace it, but are unable to find a replacement, you can use a 1956 era Ford Pickup Truck tail light socket.  The same tail light sockets were also used on a 1965 Ford Thunderbird tail light.  T-bird lights are still out there, but are also becoming increasingly hard to find.

Marchal Fog Lamps

Early models used the very rare Marchal 656/322 fog lamps.  These are very scarce today.  In the Fall of 1968, Marchal fog lamps were recalled because they were too bright.  Ford has since phased them out and they were replaced with Lucas fog lights.

If you are looking for Marchal fog lamps, try sources in France, Germany or England and perhaps some early Ferrari restoration shops.  These rare fog lights were used on other vehicles from 1962-1970.

You might also want to check with us about GT/CS parts availability.  While we don’t have any more Marchal fog lamps, we do have a few GT/CS tail light parts and twist lock brackets.