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1965-1970 Mustang V8 Conversion

Do you want more power from your Classic Mustang?  Many are choosing to convert their 6 cylinder engine and suspension to a V-8 engine and suspension to enhance performance.  But what kind of donor car will you need to find that will yield the best parts for your conversion?  This guide will give some recommendations of what to look for in searching for your donor car.

1965-1966 V8 Conversion Ideal Donor Cars

  • 1970-1977 Maverick or Mercury Bobcat with a V8 engine

1970 – 1977 Mavericks and Bobcats have an excellent front disc brake setup along with the V8 engine and transmission needed to perform the conversion.  The rear end housing on these vehicles will fit right in a 1965 or 1966 Mustang.  Donor cars with 6 cylinder engines still have the same suspension and rear end as a V8 car does.  Ideally, however, you will want to find a donor car with a V8, since you will have the proper parts for both the V8 engine and the transmission.

Your 6 cylinder Mustang transmission cross-member is the same as a V8 cross-member, thus you will not need to replace it.

If you would like additional information on converting your 1965-1966 Mustang to power disc brakes, please see our 1965-1966 Mustang Power Disc Brake Conversion guide.

1967-1970 V8 Conversion Ideal Donor Cars

  • 1975-1979 Ford Granada or Mercury Monarch with a V8 engine
  • 1970-1977 Maverick or Mercury Bobcat with a V8 engine.

1975-1979 Granadas and Monarchs have an excellent front disc brake setup along with the V8 engine and transmission needed to perform the conversion.  The rear end housing on these vehicles will fit right into a 1967, 1968, 1969 or 1970 Mustang.

1970-1977 Mavericks and Bobcats will also work, but the rear end housing is a little narrower than the 1975-1979 Granadas and Monarchs.

Donor cars with 6 cylinder engines still have the same suspension and rear end as a V8 car does.  Ideally, however, you will want to find a donor car with a V8, since you will have the proper parts for both the V8 engine and the transmission.

Your 6 cylinder Mustang transmission cross-member is the same as a V8 cross-member, thus you will not need to replace it.

How to find Donor Cars

Search local newspaper car ads, internet websites, auction websites (eBay!) and automotive salvage yards or wrecking yards.  I happen to find a lot of my donor cars by simply keeping my eyes open when driving around.  I have found some donor cars in alleys, alongside garages and in back yards!  Then, I simply ask the owner if he/she is willing to sell the car.

These donor cars are often inexpensive and a good value, given the fact that their parts can be used on your Classic Mustang V-8 conversion.  Good luck hunting for your donor car!

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

How-to guide, Mustang Information, Parts, Restoration Information
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1965-1966 Shelby Mustang 9 Inch Rear End Housing

1965 and 1966 Shelby Mustang style 9″ rear end housings are very difficult to locate, but not impossible to duplicate.  With a little work, you will be able to duplicate this Shelby rear end housing, while saving a lot of money.  This guide will provide the basic steps and necessary parts to be able to complete this process.  In the end, you will be using a Ford Galaxie 9″ rear end housing center section and 1965 or 1966 Mustang 6 cylinder rear end housing axle tubes to duplicate a Shelby rear end.

Please note:  Other Ford 9″ rear end housings may have the same styling as 1963 and 1965 Ford Galaxies.  If so, you may want to try to use one of these if a Ford Galaxie is not available.

Parts Needed for a 1965 Shelby Mustang Style Rear End Housing

  • 9″ rear end housing from a 1963 Ford Galaxie or any 9″ rear end housing that is flat on one side, rather than completely rounded with a small drain plug
  • 6 cylinder rear end housing from a 1965 or 1966 Mustang

The shape of the center section on a 9″ rear end housing on a 1965 Shelby and “K” Code Mustang is flat on one side, rather than completely rounded.  This is why you will need a 9″ rear end housing with this characteristic.  The rear end housing on a 1965 Shelby used a smaller drain plug than the one found on a 1966 Mustang Shelby.

Parts Needed for a 1966 Shelby Mustang Style Rear End Housing

  • 9″ Rear End Housing from a 1965 Ford Galaxie, or any 9″ rear end housing that is flat on one side, rather than completely rounded, with a large, flat, hexagon shaped drain plug
  • 6 cylinder rear end housing from a 1965 or 1966 Mustang

The shape of the center section on a 9″ rear end housing on a 1966 Shelby and “K” Code Mustang is flat on one side, rather than completely rounded.  This is why you will need a 9″ rear end housing with this characteristic.  The rear end housing on a 1966 Shelby and “K” Code Mustang used a large, flat, hexagon shaped (6 sided) drain plug, approximately 1 1/2″ in diameter.

How to make a 1965 or 1966 Shelby Mustang 9 inch Rear End

    1. Remove the axle tubes from the Ford Galaxie (donor car) rear end housing.
      Cut the Galaxie axle tubes flush with the weld at the edge of the center section of the housing, being careful to not damage the weld of the remaining tube in the center section.  There will still be about 2″ of tube remaining in the center section (the remaining tubes will be needed to guide and hold the 6 cylinder Mustang tubes in place, as discussed in Step 3).  Label the center section “Driver” and “Passenger” (the “Driver” axle tube is shorter and the “Passenger” axle tube is longer).
    2. Remove the axle tubes from the 1965 or 1966 Mustang 6 cylinder rear end housing.
      Cut the Mustang axle tubes flush with the edges of the cast iron center section on the Mustang 6 cylinder rear end.  Deburr the freshly cut edges (grind the edges smooth) on the axle tubes for ease of fitting.
      Please note:  when these tubes are reinstalled, they will need further trimming to achieve proper length and center section offset (this is explained in Step 4).
    3. Insert the 6 cylinder Mustang axle tubes into the Galaxie center section.
      Slide the 6 cylinder Mustang tubes into the remainder of the Galaxie tubes.  Push the tubes inward until the proper rear end housing width is achieved.  Remember to insert the tubes according to the “Driver” or “Passenger” label on the center section.   Once the tubes are  inserted to the proper overall width, use chalk to mark them at the center section weld.  Once chalk marked, remove the tubes.
    4. Trim the Mustang axle tubes to the appropriate length.
      Measure the Galaxie center section from the location that the Galaxie axle tubes were cut to the inside end of the original Galaxie axle tube.  This measurement should be about 2″.  Using this measurement, add this amount to the chalk mark on the Mustang axle tube.  Now, cut the tube even at this newly measured point.  Repeat this process with the other axle tube.
      Please note:  the inside end of the Mustang axle tube should be even with the inside end of the remainder of the Galaxie axle tube.
    5. Reassemble the rear end.
      Using a flat level surface, set the Galaxie center section down and firmly brace it.  Insert the Mustang axle tubes to the proper width, being certain that all of the components are braced so that they will not move.  Ensure that the components are absolutely straight.  Tack weld the Mustang axle tubes in place.  Double check that all tubes are straight before further welding.
    6. Weld the Mustang axle tubes to the Galaxie center housing.
      If you are an experienced welder/fabricator and know that you can weld the tubes straight and securely, attempt to do so.  Otherwise, it is highly recommended that you take the components to an experienced welder/fabricator to perform this task.

Mustang Shelby and “K” Code drivetrain components are one of the most difficult to find.  Here is a way to duplicate your own drivetrain component.

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

How-to guide, Mustang Information, Restoration Information
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1965-1966 Mustang Power Disc Brake Conversion

Convert your standard drum brake Mustang to power disc brakes the economical way.  Ford Granadas, Mavericks, Mercury Bobcats and Monarchs all have identical spindles and only have minor brake booster mounting differences.  These cars make excellent donors for power disc brakes on your 1965 or 1966 Mustang.

Tools & Materials Needed

  • Assortment of Open-End Wrenches and Sockets
  • Tubing Wrenches and Bender
  • Air Grinder

PLEASE NOTE:  This brake conversion is NOT compatible with 6 cylinder steering.  If you have 6 cylinder steering, you will need to change your pitman arm and convert to V8 manual steering.

Helpful Tips

  • When removing brake lines from a donor car, MARK EACH LINE, so that you will be able to remember which lines go to which port on the proportioning valve.
  • Most part stores carry assorted sizes of pre-made brake lines with barrel nuts intact.  This will be helpful when re-routing your brake lines.

How to Install Disc Brakes Utilizing the Power Booster

  1. Find a suitable donor car.  Any one of these will work:  1975-1979 Ford Granada, 1970-1977 Maverick, 1970-1977 Mercury Bobcat or 1975-1979 Monarch.
  2. Remove spindles and outer tie rod ends from the donor car.
  3. Remove the proportioning valve, taking time to label which brake line goes to which wheel.
  4. Remove the brake booster and master cylinder.
  5. If the donor car was drivable and the brakes were in good condition, the installation is ready to begin.  If the donor car was not operable, go to your local parts store and purchase new loaded calipers and rotors.  You should also purchase a new master cylinder, brake booster and adjustable rod (sometimes, the brake boosters are fine, but the rod extending from the booster to the brake pedal is 3/4 inch too short.  In this case, you will just need to purchase the adjustable rod and not the brake booster).  Once the new parts are obtained from the parts store, installation is ready to begin.
  6. Install disc brake spindles.  These will fit directly in place of the Mustang drum brake spindle without any modification.
  7. Install the outer tie rod ends into the existing sleeve.  I recommend cutting 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the threaded end of the outer tie rod ends to ensure proper adjustment clearance.
  8. Install the brake booster to the firewall.  This will require some modification.  You will need to enlarge the hole upward by 1/2 inch, so that the brake booster will clear the steering column.  Additionally, you will need to mark and drill holes in the firewall for the booster mounting studs.  Next, lengthen the rod extending from the booster to the brake pedal by 3/4 inch.  This can be done with using the adjustable rod that you have purchased.
  9. Install the proportioning valve.  After marking and removing the existing brake lines from the drum brake proportioning valve, install the disc brake proportioning valve.  One extra hole located under the existing mounting hole will need to be drilled to install the disc brake proportioning valve.
  10. Next, insert the proper lines to the proper ports (you should have marked the brake lines when removing them and now can insert into the proper ports).  At this point, you may need to re-route and lengthen a few of these brake lines.  On your Mustang, the brake line coming across the firewall from the passenger side wheel is not long enough to reach the correct port.  You will need to get some fittings and a short section of brake line to hook it up.  The brake line coming from the rear end can be bent by hand so that it lines up with the correct port.  The driver side wheel brake line will need to be bent as well to line up with the correct port.  The two master cylinder brake lines should be very close, with only slight bending modifications necessary.
  11. Now it is time to connect your front wheel brake lines to the body.  If you are using the original Mustang brake lines, you will need to extend the brake lines forward along the frame rail, since the donor car’s caliper brake hose is located on the front inside portion of the wheel (and not the rear portion of the wheel).  Be sure to have adequate slack in the brake hose and anchor the brake line to the frame rail securely.
  12. Next, fill and bleed your brake system.

Copyright 2007:  FastbackStack, LLC

How-to guide, Mustang Information
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